Uncorking with Brigette of Carinae

Carinae is a boutique winery that hand-crafts high quality wines in the Maipu region of Mendoza.  The owners, Brigette and Felipe Subra, are extremely hospitable, passionate, and exuberant ex-patriates from France.  They first traveled to Argentina in 1993 and fell in love with the awe-striking beauty, and the local culture and spirit of Mendoza.  It only took a few months before they realized they wanted to purchase and old winery and begin their own wine project.  Although they knew how to enjoy and drink wine, they had no previous experience in wine making.  With the incredible opportunity of fruit production in Maipu, it was important for them take full advantage of this unique terroir to create high-quality wines.  The one and only Michel Rolland consulted the Carinae team and they are now producing incredibly delicate yet complex wines in Mendoza.

On this particular day, Syrah was ready to make its move from the vine to wine and we worked from 8:00-1:00 to cut every last grape under their pergola-trained canopy.  We were each assigned a row and given bins to fill with 15 kilos of grapes.  Each worker traded a full bin for a token, which would later be used as collateral for payment the end of the work day.   Being complete amateurs at this physical labor vines, we were lapped by the pros, and collectively filled 19 bins out of all 300.  Nevertheless, Brigette appreciated our help and treated us with a wonderful lunch at her home, and of course Carinae Syrah from the previous harvest.

Gilda working hard!

We returned to Mendoza city with grape-juice stained clothes, muddy shoes, soar backs and arms.   However, we are ready to go back and clip the Malbec when it is ready in another 14 days.   This experience really showed us how labor intensive these hand-crafted wines are, and cutting the vines are just the start of the wine-making process.  The Syrah we cut yesterday will now take another 18 months of fermentation and ageing before they are released to the public.  We will have to wait patiently until the release of Carinae’s Syrah Cosecha (Harvest) 2010 that we were lucky enough to participate in!

The largest event of the entire Vendimia celebration, Fiesta Nacional, takes place on Saturday night at Mendoza’s Greek style theatre, in San Martin Park.  Back in February, Mendocinians lined up a night before tickets went on sale and every seat was sold within hours the following day.  Although the stadium holds 22,000 people comfortably, thousands more hike the surrounding hills to enjoy the captivating show picnic style and for free!

This outdoor Colloseum theatre  built in the 1950’s is very unique with 120 meters of stage and different levels, a pool of water surrounded by more platforms to stand on, 180 degree views from every seat, and a beautiful backdrop of 2 miles of rolling hills.  The venue is ideal for a large event such as this famous Vendimia celebration which has become a traditional spectacle since 1963.

On Saturday evening we hosted a pre-Vendimia reception at The Vines of Mendoza, where our visitors were able to mingle amongst each other, enjoy wine, and learn about the show they were about to see.

At 8pm everyone loaded in the bus and headed to the event in the nearby park.  With over 40,000 people on the same road to the stadium, the lines were overwhelming long for this Saturday night.  For those who know how long this event can take, spectators brought with them baskets full of wine, empanadas, and other treats to enjoy throughout the night.  Once the show began, the energy in the crowd was contagious.  People stood to their feet to cheer and dance along to the folklore music booming from below.

With 700 dancers in colorful costumes placed upon 8 different levels of the stage, it was impossible to take your eyes away from the action.  The impeccable choreography of the dancing, the incredible lighting and sound, and the synchronized fireworks shooting off from the surrounding hilltops were enchanting.

Fiesta Nacional 1 from Alison Thomas on Vimeo.

Being a first time viewer, I have to say that I was extremely impressed by the beauty of the show.  After talking to several Argentineans who had attended several Vendimia Festivals, they all told me this year’s production was the best they had ever seen.

Since Argentina is celebrating the 200^th anniversary of their first governing body, the show focused its attention on Argentina’s nationalism.  The scenes focused on the spirit of the gaucho, the wine-making traditions, as well as the history of San Martin, the liberator of Argentina.  The combination of these important traditions with the beauty of the performance created a very emotionally charged audience.  The final portion of the show was dedicated to the election of the 2010 National Vendimia Queen and Maria Flor Destéfanis of Santa Rosa walked away with this year’s crown.

Although the Festival is officially over, the harvest has barely just begun and the wineries have their work cut out for them this month.  Until mid-late April the winemakers and vineyard managers will be working around the clock to produce the highest-quality Argentinean wine for their international and domestic markets.   With tourism at its peak right now, we at Uncorking Argentina, are working harder than ever to create wonderful experiences for our friends here in the Land of Malbec.  Start planning your Vendimia 2011 custom-built trip with us and discover why Mendoza has so much to celebrate!

These two parades are great traditions of the Vendimia Festival, dating back to the 1940s.   Each of the 18 regions of Mendoza Province is represented by an intricately decorated float and their regional Queen who stands on top  waving to the crowds.  People from near and far come to the city center to support their regional Queen, holding signs or pictures of their favorite candidate.  The parade is especially important to the Queens because it is the last night before the newest National Vendimia Queen is elected and the exclusive Gala which occurs at the Park Hyatt directly after the Parade.

At 10:00 pm on Friday night, I headed out to brave the crowds (over 150,000 people!) and to have my first Via Blanca experience.  I found a perfect spot directly in front of the Park Hyatt and waited patiently for the Parade to start.  More and more people began to gather in the streets before the show, until my front row seat turned into a mob of overly excited onlookers.  Never the less, I held my ground and was ready to see what the excitement was about (or so I thought).  The first float arrived and I was dazzled by the beautiful lights decorating the float, the dancers and their incredible costumes, the interactive wine-making props, and beautiful Queens who sat on a literal throne at the top of the float.

Some how, I failed to notice that the people on the floats were actually throwing fruit and other goodies down to the people on the street.  I stood with my camera extended over my head trying to snap the best shots of the floats and the overwhelming crowd. Without warning, I was smashed in the face, knocked off my feet, and tumbled to the ground.  I look around helplessly wondering what had just happened, but more worried about my camera which flew into the massive crowd.  Two women in their seventies hovered over me, frantically helped me up and made sure I was ok.  It was then that I realized that I had been mauled by a melon!!! Yes, one of the Queens (you know who you are!) was chucking melons to the crowd.  Her region is known for growing the tastiest honeydew melons…so it was obvious to those who knew about this fruit throwing tradition that she would be tossing melons.   I laughed it off and kept my composure until I was surprised again by another hit, this time it was an alfajor cookie.  The next float slowly approached and I saw the ladies throwing apples and pears.  At this point, I was ducking behind my 70-year old Argentine protectors.    I finally gave up my close spot and watched the parade far away from throwing distance.

Before the parade ended, I made my way through Plaza Independecia to find a concert by a Tango Rock band, performing to another crowd of thousands of people.  The stage was set up directly behind the enormous fountain, which was synchronized to the show with lights and different movements.  This was by far the most impressive part of the night to see the people of Mendoza enjoying their beautiful city, dancing the night away to the Tango music and celebrating the Vendimia with their loved ones.

Plaza Independecia, Vendimia 2010 from Alison Thomas on Vimeo.

Overall Friday night was a very spirited summer evening with lots to offer visitors or the people from Mendoza.  My advice for any foreigners interested in participating in the “interactive Parade” is to either wear a helmet, a baseball mitt, or to simply watch from a nearby balcony.   I was invited to go to the following morning’s parade, Carrusel, which usually has even more onlookers, and this time there are live animals.  I didn’t want to imagine the possibilities, so I decided to pass.  Via Blanca was a very unique parade experience (nothing like a Disneyland Parade of princesses which was more of what I had expected), and luckily my camera was returned, so I have proof of this unforgettable night!

For three nights of the Vendimia, the Italian community of Mendoza hosts a “Festa de la Piazza,” taking place in the charming Plaza Italia downtown.   With about 42,000 Italian residents in the Mendoza region, it is a great opportunity to come together and celebrate their heritage.  The protagonist of this event was not the wine because the traditional Italian food easily stole the spotlight.  After circling the plaza three times and eyeing the mouthwatering pastas, pizzas, sandwiches, meat dishes, and desserts being prepared in the moment, my friends and I finally decided on spinach and ricotta stuffed Cannelloni.   We sat in the grass, enjoyed our meal as we observed the Italian opera show, performing on stage in the center of the square.  Everyone enthusiastically sang along to the classic Italian tunes, danced, and ate their hearts out until 1 in the morning.  This event was perfect for the entire family to enjoy on the wonderful summer evening.

Vendimia 2010 is in full swing in Mendoza, Argentina and I am experiencing it for the first time as an American long-term visitor, amateur wine drinker turned Argentine wine fanatic.  Never before have I seen an entire community come together to celebrate the art and science of wine making.  Over the past 10 years, Argentina has achieved world-wide recognition as a viable wine region, an accomplishment that the natives are absolutely delighted with.  Although the Vendimia is an old tradition, it has recently been noted as one of the largest festivals of Argentina, and an international attraction.  With that being said, Mendoza is in the spotlight and I, along with thousands of spectators, are here to see what the big fuss is about and to take part in the celebration.

The Vendimia is the one time of year where the team behind the scenes, are reveled as geniuses, heroes, and masters of Science.  As a foreigner, I notice there is something unique about the wine culture here in Mendoza.  There is a sense of true pride when the team involved in the winemaking process presents their final products to the public. However, there is an even greater feeling of respect for the nature of their crop, and the profound natural bounty of sunlight, fresh mountain snow melt, and the overall climate that permits the success of their beloved vines.  When visiting the Mendoza wineries, one thing that you will find other than deliciously crafted wines is sincere passion for this art.

For the next week, the city has a packed social calendar to entertain the city dwellers and the tourists.  From my home, close to Parque General San Martin, not a night has gone by without the booming background noise of nearby concerts, food festivals, and more.  I decided it was time to take part in the action, so the first event I attended was the “MEGADEGUSTACIÓN” (which was exactly how it sounds).

Megadegustación

Three blocks of downtown Mendoza were blocked off for the event, tents were set up and 200-some wineries were placed side by side with their respective wines on display.  It was a night out on the town for the winemakers, owners, and tourism staff who worked behind their booth all night to discuss and share their creations.  With $25 pesos, you received a wine glass, a program listing all of the featured wineries, and 6 tickets to taste whatever your heart desired.  Here in Argentina, it is noted that wineries provide quite generous pours during their wine tasting, and on this night despite the crowds, there was no exception.  First thing was first, $5 peso bag of steaming carne empanadas… so as my friend waited in line, I made my way through the crowd to fill our glasses with the juicy Malbec, by Familia Cassone, Obra Prima 2007.  After scarfing down a quick dinner and managing to juggle my camera, empanadas, wine glass, and tickets, the real fun began.

3 blocks full of wine-tasters!

I worked my way through the street, stopping at wineries I already knew, the ones I have always wanted to visit, and the many others that I had never heard of to check out what was in production.   My notable favorites of the night were Monteviejo’s Festivo Torrontes 2008, an extraordinary blend by Montequieto of Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Cabernet Sauvignon , Belasco de Baquedano’s Malbec Rosé, a fresh and fruity Viognier from Tapiz, and the velvety Malbec from Melodía.  As I stopped to chat with familiar faces of the industry, the gorgeous Vendimia Queens made their way through the crowd to snap photos and chat with their fans.  Around 11pm the firework show began which were set off at the nearby Plaza Independencia, which was having a party of its own, The festival de Vendimia of Mendoza City.

6 tickets for 6 tastes

Later that evening, we felt the shocks of the devastating earthquake that hit Chile.  As I enjoyed a late-night ice cream in downtown Mendoza, the ground began shake and we ran towards an open space away from nearby buildings.  Concerned Mendocinans came down from their apartments in pajamas, asking others if they knew anything.  Another thirty minutes passed and we felt an after-shock.  It wasn’t until early the next day when I discovered the news about our neighboring country and the horrifying damage that resulted.   This fierce natural disaster will absolutely impact the attendance rate of the Vendimia Festival, as we expected many Chilean visitors.  This week, I will participate in a donation drive where we will collect necessary items to be sent to the families in need in Chile.  Nevertheless, the show must go on and stay tuned for news on this week’s Vendimia happenings in Mendoza!

Alison of Uncorking Argentina